Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Dharmsala still !!

Another short one as I'm running late again! I'm giving a guitar lesson to a Tibetan refugee at 2pm and then another guitar lesson to a Tibetan monk at 4.40pm.

Melissa, Sherrie (Ozzie friends travelling together), Ollie (Finnish), Hugo (English) and myself are 'teaming up' and travelling down on 2nd Jan to Jodhpur together. So, it's been a different experience for me to consider others' inclinations/needs rather than only my own. I think after three months of solo travelling, it's a good thing for me to be somewhat 'socialised' again though! And their all very good company, so I'm looking forward to a time of companionable adventuring.

We all (not Hugo) hike up to Triund (2800 metres) couple of days ago to get a better look at the start of the Himalayan ranges - a beautiful place.

Dharamsala has been a very relaxing place to be (and I even had the Dalai Lama go past me in his car - closest I'll get) but it's time to get back on the road.

Tootle pip,

Gareth

Saturday, December 24, 2005

Merry Christmas!

Just a brief one today as it's Christmas day, the sun is shining and lunch beckons. I bought myself some antibiotics today for my Christmas present (bit of a tiresome infection been going on). Still, at only two and bought straight from the pharmacist with no hassle with having to see a doctor, I can't complain.

Last night it was Christmas carols by candlelight at the church of St John's in the Wilderness. It was packed and very nice. Then up to 3am partying with fellow 'travellers' in the hotel room.

All for now,

G

Tuesday, December 20, 2005

Dharamsala

So, I've now come up into the foothills of the Himilayas to Dharamsala, the home of the Tibetan goverment in exile (Dalai Lama etc). He apparently is at home, but not giving another public audience for two or three months. The most I'm likely to see of him is a shadowy figure as he's whisked past me in a car when I'm walking in the street. Never mind, he's not going to meet me either!

It's cooler than the plains up here, but not nearly as cold as northern Pak. Beautiful area, in fact, with wooded slopes, a fine view of the Indian plains and soaring peaks providing a backdrop. If it doesn't get too cold, I may have another go of staying for a while to do some writing. I travelled up here in the company of a very bright mathematician (Stu) and mathematical physicist (Tim). Stu is starting his mathematics PhD next year and seems happy to tutor me in the advanced mathematics I need for some of my science writing. So, I've been doing some background work already.

They have an 'open mike' session at the local cafe in the town - Khana Nirvana. So, last night I was giving them renditions of 'Pale Blue Eyes' and 'Angels' with my guitar (yes, it is still with me!). The nerves of performing in front of 60+ people (10 times more than I've ever done before) caused me to fluff a couple of chords. But it otherwise seemed to go all right and I asked an Ozzie girl to video it for me for posterity.

The atmosphere is certainly more relaxed here in India than Pakistan, as I'm now back on the beaten track. This makes things easier, but I also miss the sense of adventure I had in Pak where I didn't see any other westerners for weeks at a time.

My original plan for this trip was to catch the ship from Madras to Penang in Malaysia, but I've just been discovering from the web that this ship no longer exists. Not sure what will be happening after India/Sri Lanka then, as I want to avoid flying if I can.

Over and out,

Gareth

Saturday, December 17, 2005

I heard from a British friend I made on the road that when he and his family were crossing Afghanistan, their bus was held up by a boy with a rifle. The boy fired a few bullets through the bus, one of them went through the windows from one side to the other and close by my friends wife, shattering the glass which cut her hand. They were very shaken up, but OK now. So, I'm glad I chose not to go that way!

So, I've crossed over the border into India. It's nice to see women on the streets, something about Pakistan I I didn't like was the all-male environment outside. I never did meet Hamed's wife - even after staying in their house for five days! I've been upset all day because Hamed and I had a bit of a tiff just before he dropped me off. Hamed has been putting me up in Lahore for the past several days and he's been really, really (too) hospitable, but unfortunately that didn't stop met getting irritatable and I miserably failed to keep my cool at the last minute
:-( We disagreed over where I should get out of the car and we drove around the bus station as he suggested different places where I should catch the bus to the border. In expasperation I pretty much just told him to let me out. Oops! I'll try and make it up with a letter.

I'm now in Amritsar - the golden temple is fantastic! I've also solved the mystery as to where all the UK sparrows have gone. They're here - millions of them flying over the temple lake and roosting in the trees. I'm actually bedding down in a guest building here in the temple area. It's free sleeping and free food with donations accepted.

Then it's off to Dharamsala on Sunday for an audience with the Dalai Lama (well, queuing up for a bow, with hundreds of others - if he's at home, that is!)

Saturday, December 10, 2005

last week in Pakistan - gonna miss it!

I had a great time in the Northern Areas of Pakistan, but it was getting progressively colder and hard to think about anything other than keeping warm!
For a few days I was with Habib (manager from Madina guest house). We purchased 16 blankets in the Gilgit market and took them on the bus down to the quake zone. The group of homes we took them to was half an hour's walk up the hill from the road and hadn't received any outside help. Most of the houses there were collapsed, about to collapse or missing a wall etc A couple of mild aftershocks shook the ground whilst we were there.
We stayed the night with Habib's uncle there. He's an Imam (Islamic vicar) in the village and theology prof. who fed and watered us. Very nice stay and easy to forget at times that we were in a disaster area. Fortunately, the locals make the visitors room out of concrete, whilst they prefer to sleep in their warmer, but fragile, mud and stone houses. So, we felt pretty safe.
Habib went back to Gilgit yesterday morning and I've been wrestling with stupid Indian visa beaurocracy in Islamabad. Then fast bus this morning down to Lahore where I'm staying in luxurious comfort at the house of the Pakistani relatives of the neighbours back in England.I'm I've got the whole of the ground floor of Hamed's house to myself. Two bathrooms, two bedrooms, a kitchen and two living rooms and a dining area all for me! it's very comfortable (luxurious) and close to the centre of the city - just over 1km from the Old City. It's near Chor Burji and Lake Road on Lower Mall road.
Then, after my sojourn here, I'll need to head back to Islamabad to pick up my Indian visa.

Monday, December 05, 2005

Sultanabad school teaching & living

Greetings readers!

Well, I've been staying in the charming and beautiful village of Sultanabad for the past week, teaching for six days in the local school there and staying with the Nasim Khan family. It's been one of the best weeks of my trip so far in that I've been made to feel a welcome member of the community here with invitations to dinner, tea, walks aplenty in this short time and have also been given free reign to teach classes, where I have enjoyed teaching scientific understanding in particular.

It's been such a contrast with the atmosphere I have observed in UK schools. Here in the Northern Areas of Pakistan, I have had to make virtually no effort to have the attentiveness of the class as they all seem to be enthusiastic pupils hungry to improve their knowledge of the world.

I actually feel quite sad to leave here, but the cold weather that is descending has me feeling it is time to move south and lower in altitude to warmer climes (ie India)! I was intending to fly on one of the propeller-driven Fokker planes to Islamabad. The 20-hour bus journey that I took a month ago to get up here was such an ordeal - what with the dirt, cold, cramped seats, getting a flat tyre at 2.30 a.m. etc etc. It was also going to be neat to take off at a sharp incline in order to get out of the valley and fly around the mountains, including Nanga Parbat (they're too high for the plane to fly over them).

Unfortunately, I've had a lapse of good judgement and have got a refund on my 40 quid ticket and using the money to buy blankets in Gilgit market. Along with the substantial number of blankets already donated by some Germans, Mr Habib (local man running my hotel) and I are taking the bus down to Manserra and then on to the Bagram valley in the heart of the quake-zone to distribute the blankets to quake survivors. Mr Habib has friends in the valley with whom we can stay. It's going to be an uncomfortable couple of days!

So, it's a week or so more in Pakistan and then India here I come! (for the third time, BTW)

Gruff

PS. Below is a testimonial I wrote for the school to assist them in obtaining funding assistance and to also achieve the placement of a volunteer foreign teacher (for example, through an appication letter to the Voluntary Service Overseas (VSO) organisation).

If anyone reading this would like to donate their services to the school, then they can email me or email the school board of directors at:
Email: dureaddan@yahoo.com or asad_khan96@yahoo.com
Tel: (050811) 56445

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Testimonial for experience of teaching at English Grammar School Sultanabad
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My name is Gareth Lloyd and I was a guest teacher at the EGSS in Sultanabad near Gilgit in the Northern Areas of Pakistan for the period Monday, 28 November to Saturday, 3 December 2005. I am a citizen of the United Kingdom and was invited as a guest teacher at EGSS school and given the opportunity to teach the children in English, science and mathematics. I am an experienced and qualified (Bell School of English, Cambridge) TEFL teacher and qualified and trained in scientific fields.

The EGSS community school project was initiated 12 years ago by the local community of parents and other adults to address a real need for the kind of quality education of the children that the Pakistan government-provided schools have been failing to address in the Northern Areas. With the enthusiasm of their self-formed board of directors (who are in honary positions and donate their time freely), they have achieved impressive results in the delivery of such quality education. However, it is plain from their communications with me that the board and the teaching stafff at the school feel frustrated that lack of funding and assistance with professional development is hampering their ability to make further progress in the quality of the education they can provide to their pupils.
The facilities at the school are in short supply due to the need of the school to live within their very restricted budget. For instance, their classrooms were not purpose-built and are quite dark due to the small windows etc. The school is currently in rented premises and are looking forward to the day when they can accrue the funding to purchase their own land and construct buildings that are more suitable for a learning environment.
The study textbooks seem to be well-chosen and are of appropriate content. In particular, the science books present this subject matter in a clear way with colourful and attractive illustrations. However, the school is almost totally lacking in science equipment with which to demonstrate and make dynamic the subject. With some modest financial investment in laboratory equipment, the science teaching could really be brought to life.
Just recently, the school board of directors appear to have been successful in their persistent endeavours to secure the donation of at least five personal computers (PCs) from Gilgit district council. The council have also offered to pay for construction of dedicated computer lab should the school secure funding to purchase the local land for such a facility. Subscriptions are already raised from the pupils' parents to support the ongoing finances of the school at the maximum that these parents can afford, so unless outside funding can be secured, the construction of such an IT laboratory looks unlikely at present.
The EGSS community school is a very worthy project that is striving to give opportunities through education to the local children that were generally not available to their parents. But the school is surviving on a quite precarious budget and to make improvements to the facilities (such as the unsuitable classrooms and the lack of scientific equipment) and ensure that teaching staff can continue to be employed, the school urgently needs financial assistance from outside the community and quite probably outside Pakistan as well (ie a foreign donor). Supporting EGSS financially would require only quite modest sums, since local prices and wages are low, but the return for such investment in terms of educational benefit to the Sultanabad pupils would be substantial. My recommendation is that educational charities and funding bodies in the United Kingdom, United States, Europe, Japan and elsewhere in the world should seriously consider lending the EGSS school their support.
I have found the head mistress ( the principal, by name of Zahra) and all the teachers to be incredibly cooperative in assisting me to have a productive period of teaching and classroom assisting at EGSS. I have been given full opportunity and assistance to prepare and develop lessons in English, science (my specialist interest) and mathematics. The teaching staff have also been very encouraging to involve me as an assistant in their own classes and I have observed their teaching ability, dedication and enthusiasm in this capacity. Although the teachers seem lacking in confidence in their professional ability due to the shortage of professional training and development for them, this timidity is not justified and it is obvious that the pupils are making impressive progress in their knowledge of English, science and mathematics.
I have had a marvellous week of teaching at EGSS and have felt rewarded in my knowledge that I have seen the children benefitting from my stay and the exposure it has given to both the students and teaching staff for the experience of hearing the pronounciation of a native-English speaker. Proper pronounciation is one of the main contributions they need from the services of a foreign teacher, though contributions in subjects such as science and mathematics would also be welcome. I have enjoyed broadening their vocabularly with some unfamiliar words and telling them about my travels and life back in England. From the questions ventured by the students have plainly been fascinated by information from the world outside the Northern Areas. It was particulary memorable to teach phonetics to the youngest children in the nursery classes with the aid of songs played with my guitar!
The domestic facilities in the Northern Areas are often challenging (electricity power cuts are an almost daily occurrence), but I was provided with complementary food and accommodation in a very comfortable, large and clean room in the home of Naseem Khan - a Sultanabad family near to the school. The EGSS school is situated in a beautiful area at the lower part of the Hunza valley with some of the highest mountains of the Karakoram mountains, such as Rakaposhi (about 7,800 metres), within short distances. There are some very rewarding mountain treks, valley walks and activities on offer in the local area and the local people here are among the most friendly and hospitable of all that I have met on my overland travels from the United Kingdom.
I would certainly recommend the school, the professional staff and the local village of Sultanabad to any foreign teacher considering donating their services to an underprivilged, but very deserving community. With the input of outside financial resources to support their facilities development and the future placement of a native English-speaking teacher, the English Grammar School Sultanabad can only go on to yet greater things.